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Place is so local, newbies can feel odd

Weekend!Food: Restaurant of the Week

(news photo)

JIM CLARK / P0RTLAND TRIBUNE

At Hillsdale's Three Square Grill, the vibe — from menu to art to clientele — is as local as it gets.

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Three Square Grill is a well-established neighborhood favorite as evidenced by the number of diners the servers address on a first-name basis.

The smallish, casual restaurant in a Hillsdale strip mall fronts a partially open kitchen and features local art on the walls and a menu filled with Northwest-influenced American favorites.

Most dishes are made with ingredients sourced from local and regional sustainable producers, including goat cheese, pig, wild Northwest mushrooms, beef, baguettes (from the restaurant’s neighbor Baker & Spice when they aren’t the grill’s house-made buns and desserts), as well as organic greens from the owners’ garden, house-crafted pickles, preserves and salad dressings, and house-cured and smoked fish and meats.

It isn’t just the menu that gives Three Square Grill its eco-cred — even their spent fryer oil is transformed into biodiesel.

Seasonal ingredients and nightly specials keep the menu fresh. It’s a lot of Southern Americana, like fried okra and hush puppies and roasted vegetable hash.

More creatively executed meals include a tasty chicken Mirabella made with a mélange of Italian prunes, dried cherries, figs, olives, capers, garlic and red wine (for a Moroccan chicken tagine effect).

A delectable grilled wild Alaskan coho salmon is matched with potatoes lyonnaise and asparagus wrapped in prosciutto.



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